What types of panic bars are there?
Every panic bar does the same job: push the bar and the door opens, with no key or knob to figure out in a hurry. The difference is where the door latches.
| Type | Where it latches | Typical door |
|---|---|---|
| Rim exit device | One latch at the end of the bar into a strike on the frame | Single steel or wood doors like back doors and stairwells. The most common type. |
| Surface vertical rod | Rods on the face of the door latch into the top of the frame and the floor | Double doors with no centre post |
| Concealed vertical rod | Same idea, but the rods run inside the door | Aluminum storefront doors and newer double doors |
| Mortise exit device | A mortise lock body set into the edge of the door | Heavy-use doors that need a strong latch, often with an outside lever |
Common brands in Canadian commercial buildings include Von Duprin, Sargent, Corbin Russwin, Detex, Falcon and Yale. Parts are often brand-specific, so tell dispatch the name printed on the bar or end cap.
When is a panic bar required on an exit door in Ontario?
The Ontario Fire Code and the Ontario Building Code set when exit doors need panic hardware. In general it applies to exit doors in places where many people gather or work, like restaurants, bars, stores, gyms, places of worship and larger offices. The exact rule depends on how the space is used and how many people it holds.
We don't decide compliance for you. If you're not sure whether a door needs a panic bar, or what kind, check with the building owner or the fire inspector. Once you know what's required, we can supply and install the right hardware.
A few rules apply almost everywhere:
- Never chain, padlock or bolt an exit door shut while people are in the building
- Don't add a deadbolt or slide bolt to a door that has a panic bar
- Fire-rated doors need fire-rated exit devices, and those can't be mechanically dogged
- Keep the path to the door clear of stock, boxes and garbage bins
Need panic bar installation & repair now? A real person answers 24/7.
Call (647) 367-8113Why is my panic bar sticking or not latching?
Most problems come from wear, a door that has dropped, or rods out of adjustment. Here's what we usually find:
| Problem | Common cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Door won't stay shut or the latch doesn't catch | Strike out of line, door sagging, or the closer not pulling the door all the way | Realign the strike, tighten hinges, adjust the closer |
| Bar is hard to push or sticks in | Worn or broken springs inside, dirt, or a bent bar | Clean and lubricate, replace the springs, or replace the device |
| Top latch on a double door misses | Vertical rods out of adjustment or bent | Adjust the rod length, replace bent rods or latches |
| Bottom rod drags or won't drop into the floor | Rod set too long, debris in the floor strike, or the door has dropped | Readjust, clean the floor strike, or switch to a top-latch-only setup where allowed |
| Outside lever turns but the door won't open | Broken trim linkage | Repair or replace the outside trim |
If the door itself swings badly, the closer may be the real problem. See our door closer and hardware page.
Double doors that latch fine in summer and miss every winter usually aren't broken. The door and frame shift with the temperature, and a small rod or strike adjustment sorts it out.
What is dogging on a panic bar?
Dogging holds the bar pushed in so the latch stays pulled back. The door then works as a simple push or pull door, which is handy during business hours. At closing, you undog it so the latch catches again.
- Hex key dogging: a small Allen-style key turned in a hole in the bar. The most common type. These keys go missing all the time, so keep a spare by the till.
- Cylinder dogging: a key cylinder in the bar does the same job, so only key holders can dog the door.
- Electric latch retraction: power pulls the latch back, often on a timer or tied into the building's access system.
Make sure someone undogs the door every night. A dogged door isn't latched, which means it isn't locked.
Can you add an outside handle or key to a panic bar door?
Yes. Most exit devices take outside trim, which is the handle or lever on the outside of the door. The usual options:
- Night latch: turn the key to pull back the latch and open the door. It locks again when you take the key out.
- Key-controlled lever: the key sets the outside lever to locked or free
- Pull handle with cylinder: a fixed pull plus a key to release the latch
- Rim cylinder only: key access only, common on back and loading doors
The trim has to match the brand and model of the bar. If you're on a master key system, the new cylinder can be keyed to it so it doesn't add another key.
What happens when you call?
Tell us the brand and the problem
Read out the name on the bar or end cap and describe what the door is doing, or what you want added.
Price before work
Dispatch gives you the price for parts and labour before we start.
Repair or install
We adjust, repair or replace the device, and fit outside trim or a cylinder if you need key access.
Test from both sides
We push the bar, check the outside trim and key, and make sure the door closes and latches on its own.
Page reviewed October 2026 by the LocksmithGT team.